Below you can see my eight staves. One side has the notch or birdsmouth cut into it.
I screwed a series of blocks into my work table and used a string to make sure they were in line and at the same level. The first stave will be temporarily fastened to the blocks. This helps insure that the spar is glued up straight, and means you only have to wrestle seven glue covered staves into position.
Some builders use hose clamps or zip ties to hold the staves together until the glue sets but I like to use old bicycle inner tubes like big rubber bands. I had to add some lead weights to convince the mast to lay down on the blocks.
Below is an end on view of the small end of the mast. I shaped a solid plug to fit inside of the mast where a sheave will go and to seal the end of the mast.
The idea is that a hollow mast is almost as strong as a solid mast but much lighter because the wood in the center is not really doing much work. The thinner the wall the lighter but at some point you start to lose more strength than you save weight. The small size of the pieces makes the work a little finicky.
Now I use a plane and sanding board to turn the octagonal cylinder into a round cylinder. I forgot to tell you that after I cut the birdsmouth notches in the staves I tapered each stave so it was only about 1/2 inch wide at the upper end. This produced a tapered hollow wooden cylinder.
At the top I cut out an opening for a masthead sheave. The halyard will run through this so I can raise sail.
I shaped a small plug to seal the lower end of the spar so no water can get in.
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